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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.